Young Christophe Sabon, with his sister by his side and his father in the background, is doing as great a job turning out terrific wines as any vigneron in the world. With nearly 200 acres of vineyards, 45 of them old vines situated in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, there is enormous potential, all of it being exploited. The 1998s, 1999s, 2000s, and 2001s were all fabulous at this estate, the 2003s were slightly irregular as well as tannic, the 2005s were great, the 2006s are fabulous, and the 2007s may be the sine qua non of all his vintages. The white wines are not to be missed as they are some of the freshest, most perfumed, lively whites of Southern France. The value picks represent remarkable bargains. The bottled 2006 low end wines are all in the marketplace. While they are not quite at the level of the 2007s, there are some gorgeous choices for consumers. Janasse’s 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Papes are outrageous, all of which performed brilliantly despite having just completed their malolactics after 11 months of fermentation. The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is one of the vintage’s most compelling wines. Most of the fruit for this offering comes from the estate vineyards in La Crau, and it is usually a blend of 80% Grenache (aged in tank and foudre) and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre that are kept in small barrels. Approxmiately 400 cases are produced. It is hard to say whether this is the finest wine Christophe Sabon has made since taking over for his father, but what a profoundly great effort! It is an elixir of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with an inky/blue/purple color and an extraordinary nose of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, licorice, truffles, graphite, and spice. The wine boasts enormous richness, incredible harmony, and a finish that lasts more than a minute. It is one of the most outrageously rich, concentrated, and perfect Chateauneuf du Papes I have ever tasted at this stage of development. It should last for 30+ years. Drink 2013-2043.
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