2017 Tinon Furmint ‘Határi’ Olaszliska Tokaj Hungary

Határi, literally “at-the-border” is right on the cusp between the villages of Erdőbénye and Olaszliszka in the geographic center of the Tokaj appellation. The soils on Határi have a 15 million year old volcanic base (tuffa, obsidian) plus broken up limestone and clay. With 10,000 plants per hectare (90% Furmint, 10 % Hárslevelű) and most with 90 years of age or more, no herbicides, pesticides, or tractors are used. Everything is done by hand or horse. Among all of Tinon’s dry wines, this one is the driest, freshest, and yet some how it achieves a silkiness that falsely implies residual sugar. Perhaps it’s the old vines achieving balance, perhaps it’s the intensely volcanic soils, or the right grape in the right place, but this is one of Tinon’s most elegant and piercing Furmints.