2019 Chanin Chardonnay Los Alamos Santa Barbara County

W&S96 We have notes of Gavin Chanin’s Los Alamos Vineyard chardonnays from nearly his first vintage, and there are themes, even specific words, that are common through the years—how the wines invariably feel open, transparent, expansive, wide. There is something about this place that Chanin was born to channel, and he has the good sense to stay out of its way. The ’19 is true to its forbears, perhaps displaying a bit more structure, more vertical assembly against which this wine’s cool and gentle flavors—caramel, pear, lees, a spray of coast fog—assemble. Buy a few bottles of this wine to cellar and to contemplate as you uncork them over the course of years. 
JD94 Boasting a killer bouquet of reductive stone fruits, lemon, chalky minerality, and toast, the 2019 Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard is medium-bodied and has flawless balance as well as clean, integrated acidity. Brought up in just 15% new French oak, it’s unfortunate that there are a scant 485 cases produced. It’s beautiful today, yet I see no reason it won’t keep for 7-8 years if stored properly.