2021 Torbreck ‘RunRig’ Shiraz Barossa Valley

WA98+ This is the wine that people seem to lose their minds over, and just between you and me, I do understand that. It’s one of a handful of super sensational Shiraz Viognier from this great country, and the ability of this cuvée to speak so eloquently of both the Barossa and its harmonious varietals is impressive to say the least. So is, while we’re discussing it, the density and volume of the wine. On the nose, the 2021 RunRig is savory and meaty, with charry oak at the fore, backed by black cherry, graphite, dried rose petals, red and purple fruit, flowers and black tea. There is both detail and density. On the palate, the wine is both silky and huge. It’s momentous, long and complex. It’s like the volume has been turned up in every possible way, and what I know of sound mixing is on show here; it’s a loud mix, but all the elements are perfectly in balance. And ultimately, that’s what’s up. Like Nick Cave, it’s got it all, and it does it with conviction and intellect. It’s a great wine, from a great season. Bigger than perhaps ever before. 15% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

JS97 Lifted and aromatic with deeply brooding aromas of blood plums, blackberries, cured meat, citrus rind, potpourri, violets and iodine. The palate is full-bodied with firmly integrated tannins and finely focused acidity, giving notes of mocha, mulberries, olive tapenade and black pepper. Wonderfully balanced, with a seamless texture and a never-ending finish. Excellent. Drink or hold.