2020 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Vielles Vignes

DEC98 Beautiful clarity and definition of aroma. Certainly rounded but not massive, this has a great mouthfeel; so fresh and full of energy, with perfectly balanced acidity – you don’t have to look for it, it comes at you. Lovely tension, intensity and salinity, the oak so well-integrated you barely notice it, and there’s no toastiness, just notes of cedar, tobacco and cinnamon and a long finish. Not a hugely rich vintage, but a hugely fresh and energetic one. They’ve started to pick a little earlier and are now leaving the juice on the skins for three to four hours in the press. The wine spends one year in new barriques and demi-muids. Drinking Window 2024 – 2036.

JD98 Even better, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes comes from a single parcel of very old vines and is 100% Roussanne brought up in barrel. It too is medium to full-bodied and incredibly concentrated, with brilliant white currants, green almond, honeyed mineral, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. The balance is just about perfect, as is the purity of fruit, and this incredible white is one of the top releases in the vintage. As I’ve written in the past, it’s the Montrachet of the Southern Rhône and can evolve for decades in cold cellars. As usual, I was able to taste the Perrin family’s Gigondas releases during my visit to Château de Beaucastel, and have included those releases here as well. This estate continues to fashion a classic, age-worthy style of wine, largely based on Mourvèdre. Looking at the latest releases reviewed here, the 2020s show the pure, fresh, yet still nicely concentrated style of the vintage. The 2020 whites are brilliant, with slightly cooler, more vibrant profiles, which is the style of the vintage. As to the reds, both 2020 and 2019 are unquestionably brilliant vintages here, with the nod I think going to the 2019s.

WA97 From vines planted in 1909, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is entirely barrel-fermented and matured, half in new oak from Chassin and half in second-use steam-bent barriques from Dargaud & Jaegle. It’s much like the regular Beaucastel CdP Blanc, but more—and sometimes more really is more. With waves of honeyed pear and pineapple fruit folded together on the full-bodied palate, it’s creamy and rich, yet vibrant and refreshing on the long, luxurious finish. The aging curve of this wine is never easy to predict, as some vintages close up tight soon after release only to open up after several years in the cellar, while others seem to exude opulence throughout their life.