2023 Hibou Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley

WSI95 DEC95 Of the 2023 Hibou wines I recently tasted — the Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon and the Red Blend — this Moon Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon (at just 14% alcohol) is the structured powerhouse, and the most ageworthy of the range. While pleasure-packed today, it benefits from a good decanting to soften its towering, skyscraper-like tannins. A mix of red- and black-fruit notes is framed by expensive, beautifully toasty French oak. Nuance abounds too, with loamy earth, dried sage and mint adding layers of complexity to the long finish. Crafted by Keith Emerson of Vineyard 29 and Gundlach Bundschu Winery.

Producer Notes: From the dramatic slopes of the Moon Mountain District comes a Cabernet of remarkable intensity and elegance. The 2023 vintage opens with deep aromas of black currant, blackberry, and ripe plum, accented by notes of sage, cedar, and dark chocolate. On the palate, concentrated layers of cassis and black cherry frame fine-grained mountain tannins and a vibrant mineral backbone. Powerful yet refined, this Cabernet finishes long and resonant. Built to impress now and reward patient cellaring.