NV Jacques Selosse ‘Substance’ Blanc de Blancs

WA99 Disgorged in November 2021, the latest release of Selosse’s emblematic NV Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance exhibits aromas of dried fruits, peach, clear honey, toasted nuts, fenugreek, dried white flowers and nutmeg. It’s full-bodied, vinous and racy, with huge concentration, bright acids and a long, intensely sapid finish. As I’ve written before, this is the cuvée that best exemplifies Selosse’s contention (to paraphrase) that an oxidative élevage can purge a wine of the organic, leaving behind only the mineral—in this case, he argues, the imprint of two Avize lieux-dits, Les Chantereines and Les Marvillannes. For admirers of Selosse’s wines, that makes it one of the most compelling bottlings in the portfolio, just as his detractors are likely to rank it as his most divisive.

WS96 A finely tailored Champagne, combining sculpted cut and structure with a softly effervescent, creamy texture. There’s a rich, lightly toasty edge to this vibrant version, with hints of roasted hazelnut and panettone, plus flavors of honeyed apricot, dried white blossoms, briny oyster shell and anise. Reveals a streak of salinity that lingers on the finish.