2008 Philip Togni Ca’ Togni Sweet Red Spring Mountain 375ml

AG 94 Good medium red. Bright aromas of red fruits, rose petal, maple syrup, clove and black olive. Plush and sweet (actually 230 grams per liter r.s.), but with terrific spicy lift to the red berry, black olive tapenade and nutty flavors. With air, exotic notes of lichee and pineapple emerge. Finishes with very fine tannins and terrific length. This wine is a giant pain in the ass to make, as it relies on very late harvesting and a berry-by-berry sorting of only perfect fruit, but it is so consistently sexy and delicious that it’s hard to believe more estates don’t try their hand at this sort of thing, although I’m not aware of other black hamburgh planted in Napa Valley.