2017 J. Christopher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

W&S94 Blended from estate lots planted on volcanic soils, this really does smell like volcanic earth in its smoky and mildly earthy notes. The cool red-fruit flavors seem plush at first but lengthen and become velvety after a day, spicy with hints of rooibos tea, cinnamon and tar. For tea-smoked duck.
Estate Notes: The Volcanique cuvée is a selection of outstanding barrels from vineyards we work with in the Dundee Hills. The wine showcases the savory quality, the fruit purity, and the fine-grained texture that characterizes the deep, red volcanic clay of these hills. The 2017, a blend of Pommard and Wädenswil clones from La Colina vineyard, is a perfect example, with its elegant red fruit aromas, delicate structure and seamless length. 900 cases produced. 100% destemmed; native yeast fermen- tation; unforced malolactic; 18 months in barriques (25% new); no fining or filtration.  

The 2017 vintage was excellent in the Willamette Valley, in spite of a very hot summer and the worrisome threat of wildfires. We brought in superbly ripe fruit, the harvest itself was less frenzied than in most years, and the wines have turned out beautifully. Because of the warm summer, we thought we were in for another very early harvest. Fortu- nately, cooler weather and a bit of cleansing rain came to us in September. After the fast start in summer, this respite gave the fruit time to finish ripening at a much slower pace, while retaining freshening acidity.