2019 Chateau Guilhem Tournier Cuvée ‘La Malissonne’ Provence

WA92+ Mainly old-vine Mourvèdre matured in foudres, the 2019 Bandol Cuvee La Malissonne is a traditional example of the appellation, marked by scents of asphalt, black olive and tree bark. It’s medium to full-bodied, richly tannic and sturdy on the palate, with a long, dusty finish.

Château Guilhem Tournier’s La Malissonne is a great example of Mourvèdre from the region. (“Malissonne” means how to handle things in a clever way.) Showing how Mourvèdre thrives under his care, Tournier goes far beyond the minimum, using 95% in the blend (compared to 70-75% for Tempier), which he finds make it exotic and endowed with structure. The balance is composed of Grenache adding a touch of fruitiness. Aged 18 months in oak barrels, this wine shows a beautiful garnet color with violet hues. Its very mineral nose evokes shales and ripe fruit compote. On the palate, the attack is creamy with notes of red stone fruits. The tannins are fine and tight, this wine develops a minty side which matches with Mediterranean flavors.

Château Guilhem Tournier is an emerging star of Bandol, known for using a high percentage (90%+) of Mourvèdre, despite the high cost because it thrives in his vineyard, he has rare vines with direct lineage to Beaucastel (WWII era), and he loves it. Bandol’s reputation was built on Mourvèdre, but after phylloxera and war devastation, higher yielding varieties were often favored as they are easier and less expensive to grow. Today, the percentage of Mourvèdre mandated by the Bandol AOC is just 50%, and most producers use ~70%. Tournier’s seaside location is favorable for Mourvèdre—as the old saying goes, “le Mourvèdre doit voir la mer”—where the sun is intense enough for full phenolic ripening and Mediterranean breezes prevent mildew. His Mourvèdre vines are rare, selections massale from Beaucastel in CdP and Simone in Province, which were acquired originally by his grandfather along with Lucien Peyraud (Domaine Tempier), during WWII.
Tournier is a purist when it comes to farming, using horse drawn carts, natural fertilizers (compost, manure) and bioynamics; the vineyards are certified organic. In the cellar he uses native yeasts, filtration and fining with clay and minimal S02. Tournier’s wines have received medals from the prestigious Paris and Avignon competitions every year since the first vintage in 2005 and are served in many of the hip bistros in Paris.