2005 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux

VIN97 I was blown away by the 2005 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru because though I have tasted it two or three times, never could I envisage that it would reach this level. It has laser-like precision on the nose with more blue fruit than I remember, so much mineralité, as if someone had just ground limestone directly into the wine glass. The palate is exquisitely balanced with filigree tannins framing the pure red fruit, a Pinot Noir with unerring symmetry. It gains weight and depth with aeration, ultimately transforming into a profound wine and one of the best bottles of Grands-Echézeaux that I have tasted from the domaine. Tasted at Noizé restaurant in London.

BH96 This was last year and still is considerably more reserved and less expressive though the discreet aromas are decidedly more elegant with much more floral influence on the violet and rose petal infused aromas that are nuanced by soy, hoisin and clove notes that can also be found on the muscular, robust and powerful big-bodied flavors that exude dry extract on the detailed and hugely persistent finish. This is both stylish and classy with tautly wound flavors that have that great sense of underlying tension and cuts-like-a-knife precision. Note however that this is, at a comparable stage, so much more primary and backwards than normal that this will need a very long time in the cellar to arrive at its majority, indeed I am not at all sure that the 20 years that I am suggesting will be sufficient.