Chartogne Taillet ‘Cuvée Sainte Anne’ Extra-Brut

VIN92 The NV (2019) Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is fabulous. Rich, ample and layered, the Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne hits all the right notes. I especially admire its vinous intensity and overall resonance. Dried pear, flowers mint, white pepper and lemon confit are some of the many notes that grace this exquisite Champagne from Alexandre Chartogne. It’s great to see this bottling – one of my perennial favorites – bounce back from a lackluster showing last year. Best of all, Cuvée Ste.-Anne remains an exceptional value in the world of fine grower Champagne.
WS92 A distinctive Champagne, high-toned and floral with its cherry blossom and spice aromatics accenting the steeped raspberry, orange peel and salted almond flavors. Finely textured, like raw silk on the palate, this is bright and mouthwatering on the lingering finish. Disgorged January 2021.

Varietal: 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier

Tasting Notes: Pale gold in color with a fine, persistent mousse. Aromas of ripe apple, pear, and citrus zest are complemented by notes of brioche, almond, and a hint of minerality. On the palate, it is vibrant and well-balanced, with flavors of orchard fruits, lemon curd, and toasted nuts, leading to a crisp, refreshing finish.

Pairing: Fried Chicken, Oysters, French Fries and Caviar are all common recommendations, but a personal favorite is a great bag of potato chips and some caramelized onion dip!

About:
In the vineyards, Alexandre does not follow any certifications; his goal is “to respect the soil populations as much as I can”. His work is followed by Claude and Lydia Bourguignon, the two foremost experts on soil microbiology. “I do not use chemicals, herbicides, insecticides … and plough half of my vineyards with my horses. Most of the work is made by hand, but … no certification.” Sheep and Chickens are used for fertilization and focus is put on the health of the soil as Chartogne believes that the transmission of terroir comes only though careful work in the vineyard. Horses are kept on the property and used for ploughing and a majority of the work in the vineyard is made by hand.

Starting with the very first year back at home, Chartogne was experimenting with special, single parcel bottlings. Today, he produces wines from 8 different parcels: Les Barres, Beaux Sens, Le Coarres, Couarres Château, Heurtebise, Orizeaux, Les Alliées and Chemin de Reims. In each parcel a different variety planted, but Chartogne is adamant about the variety not being important. “It is the soil and the place that is most important. The variety is just the transmission of the feeling of that place” says Alexandre. In addition to the very small production parcelle wines, he produces a Rosé, which he considers to be the wine that carries the biggest imprint of the winemaker, as well as a non-vintage called Saint-Anne, which expresses the different terroirs of Merfy. Ste. Anne is a village wine, and an excellent lesson in just how fine wine from “cru normal” made with expertise and care can be.