VIN94 The 2016 Barolo Villero is a powerful, clenched wine. Then again, that’s Villero. Readers will have to be patient, that much is clear. White pepper, chalk, dried flowers, dried red cherry and mint open up over time, but the 2016 is sinewy and nervous in feel, with just enough fruit to keep things in balance. Hints of sage, tobacco, leather and menthol add the closing touches of complexity.
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