Varietals
Wine Advisor Stories: The White Wine That Had to Do it All
15
Jul
Jul
The White Wine that Had to Do It All
One Course. One Bottle.
A legendary chef in L.A. had shuttered her restaurant two years ago. Until the day it closed, it was one of those rare spots where people flew in just for the tasting menu. Now, for one night only, she was reopening it as a pop-up private supper club. Just a dozen handpicked former regulars.
Each diner was assigned a course of the evening…and told to bring a wine.
One of our longtime clients received the invite and called us immediately.
“Appetizer. Bring a white. That’s all it says. What do I do?”
He didn’t want to show off; he wanted to show up…with the perfect bottle. Something versatile, cellar-worthy, and expressive. We kicked around possibilities: A waxy, old-vine Chenin? Gorgeous, but he remembered the chef’s signature amuse-bouche of Thai-spiced mussels that would steam-roll its subtle sweetness. A standout Napa Chardonnay? Could be great, but the chef was also known for her delicate and citrus-driven crudos. Would there be too much weight?
Whatever we chose might have to slice through fat, get along with acid, or keep pace with heat, and still feel worthy of a cellar. Chardonnay and Chenin just weren’t going to clear all those hurdles, so we kept looking.
In what felt like a scripted moment, we both quietly exclaimed, “Riesling,” and all of a sudden everything clicked. We scoured our inventory and the perfect bottle appeared: A magnum of 2010 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg. A dry Grand Cru from Alsace. Nearly fifteen years old, with just enough bottle age to give it texture and gravitas. Still vibrant, but layered and composed. It would cut through fat, elevate spice, and match the mood no matter what the chef had planned.
And the magnum? Would that be okay?
“The magnum is the only logical choice,” he said. “First pour of the night should never run out.”
We overnighted the bottle, temperature-controlled.
As soon as he saw the dish coming out of the kitchen, a wry smile crept across his face.
Dungeness crab, chilled and sweet, nestled atop yuzu gelée with pickled green strawberries, Thai basil oil, and a shaving of smoked bonito.
Delicate and daring with bright citrus, briny ocean, herbal lift, and just enough umami to demand a wine with range.
The 2010 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg? Spot on. Its age gave it texture. Its acid gave it clarity. And its quiet power pulled every flavor into harmony.
Chardonnay would’ve been too rich. Chenin too waxy.
Riesling nailed it.
